Spirit of Jalisco
A bespoke tequila brand elevates taste and craftsmanship.
A bespoke tequila brand elevates taste and craftsmanship.
STORY BY: LANNAN O'BRIEN
Viridiana Tinoco fell in love with the agave plant while working as a biochemical engineer for a company that produces agave syrup. “Every day, I would drive through the fields on my way to the facility and smell the natural aromas of the agave,” she recalls. Inside her workplace, the sweet smell of agave cooking was intoxicating. “That was the first time I realized I wanted to be more involved in this industry.”
In 2016, Clase Azul, an artisanal tequila company, hired Tinoco, and she began earning her master’s degree in tequila processes. She was fascinated by the science of distillation and fermentation and the myriad methods of altering flavors and aromas. With a background in quality control, she was well-equipped to become the new master distiller of the mezcal and tequila producer based in Jalisco, Mexico. “I wanted to understand everything about agaves, like what happens if you grow them in Tequila Valley versus in Altos de Jalisco, the [Jaliscan] Highlands,” she says. She was equally excited to be part of a business that truly cared about its people and soon fell in love with the company culture.
Although best known for its Tequila Reposado, Clase Azul has a “family” of eight mezcals and tequilas, alongside limited-edition releases. The brand is easily recognized by its beautiful ceramic decanters, which are hand-painted by Mexican artisans (the company founded its own ceramic workshop, Tradición Mazahua, specifically for their creation).
The journey to the bottle is a long and arduous one, beginning with the production of Jalisco’s native agave. Clase Azul has its own agronomy team that manages its agave crops in the Jaliscan Highlands. “We decided to plant our agaves there because the altitude, the temperature, and the rainfall are higher than in the Tequila Valley,” explains Tinoco, making for more ideal soil conditions than the lowlands.
The variations in the growing conditions have a direct impact on the characteristics of the mature plant. For instance, Tinoco says in the Highlands, “We’re going to attain more fruity aromas and a sweeter taste,” whereas agaves grown in the valley tend to have stronger citrus notes. Throughout the growth process, the agronomy team analyzes the soil composition for nutrients and monitors the agaves’ sugar production and maturation.
For Clase Azul, agaves are considered “mature” and ready for harvest after six years in the field. Tinoco says that some distilleries produce tequila using younger agaves, but this results in the development of higher methanol content. Another way the company curbs methanol production is during the harvest, by ensuring the leaves of the agave are cut completely to reveal the piña, or the heart of the plant, which contains its sweet juice.
After the agave is cooked and milled, it is fermented using Clase Azul’s own yeast (sometimes in combination with other yeasts) to transform sugars into alcohol and hone the desired aromas. Then it is distilled twice. Although the brand’s core blends have a specific aging process — for example, Reposado is aged for eight months in American whiskey casks—Tinoco enjoys experimenting with different barrels for their special-edition blends. “I have wine barrels from different regions, like France and Napa, and whiskey barrels from different regions. Sometimes I’ll use an American whiskey cask to start, then finish aging in a special barrel, depending on what I want to express,” she says.
This past winter, the company released the limited-edition Clase Azul Mezcal San Luis Potosí, the third in a series of mezcals, making it a trio of agaves from different regions of Mexico: Guerrero, Durango, and now, San Luis Potosí. This mezcal features an herbal flavor and notes of caramel, lime zest, and cloves. “The expression of the distillates is very different from the other two mezcals that we have,” says Tinoco.
The master distiller says that her favorite Clase Azul blend depends on her mood, but she is partial to the San Luis Potosí and the Tequila Gold. “It’s good for young people, for older people, and it’s a very easy tequila to drink.” However, at other times, she prefers to enjoy the flavor notes achieved in a longer aging process, in which case she gravitates toward the Añejo.
Each new blend is aged in multiple barrels, with Tinoco conducting tastings every month to analyze its status. There are some limited editions that she has been aging for 12 years. But she knows better than most that achieving perfection cannot be rushed, especially when it comes to tequila. “We are never going to sacrifice quality for quantity,” she says. “We make everything at Clase Azul with the goal of sharing the magic of the process and the culture of Mexico.”
Clase Azul Destinations
In addition to being masters of tequila and mezcal, Clase Azul has become an expert in one-of-a-kind experiences around its spirits. Through Clase Azul Destinations, customers can enjoy shopping, dining, and sipping signature cocktails in luxury, elevating the traditional tasting to new heights. “We always aim to share the magic of Mexican culture with the world,” says Juan Sanchez, who co-owns the company with Arturo Lomeli. “Our destinations arm was the perfect way to blend our tequilas and mezcals with the hospitality and experiences that Mexico is known for.”
Clase Azul La Terraza Los Cabos is their restaurant, bar, and boutique in San José del Cabo, Baja California Sur, that showcases the best of Mexican cuisine and culture. The same location offers two unique experiences. A Taste of Culture, a tasting that Sanchez describes as “an immersive journey into the world of agave,” pairs Clase Azul spirits with artful culinary creations and storytelling. The second experience, Clase Azul Cosmos, allows participants to explore their inner energy and essence to determine the appearance of their very own customized decanter (filled with a special Anejo tequila, of course).
The brand’s boutiques at La Terraza and Los Cabos Airport offer an upscale shopping experience, access to limited editions, and the opportunity to learn the stories behind each of the brand’s “icons,” or signature spirits.