Flavors of the Basque

Imagine a gastronomic mecca full of picturesque old towns and breathtaking scenery that is still, somehow, off the beaten path for most travelers. It’s a fascinating place that has preserved its unique language and cultural traditions for thousands of years. For food lovers, it’s a bucket-list destination unlike anywhere else. 

The Basque Country of northeast Spain and southwest France has resisted centuries of outside influences to maintain its robust and proud identity. Bordered by the Pyrenees mountain range and the Atlantic Ocean, the region is temperate, with plentiful rain that gives the terrain a lush, green aspect all year round. This mild climate is ideal for the region’s renowned local specialties—crisp, dry ciders, effervescent txakoli wine, piquant Idiazabal cheese, and abundant seafood from the cold waters of the Bay of Biscay. 

The Basque Country is surprisingly accessible, and even with just a few days to explore, visitors can savor its many charms.

Bilbao: Basque Food 101

The most accessible launch point for a culinary tour of the Basque Country is Bilbao, which has an international airport and is well-connected to major European cities. Formerly a gritty industrial port city, today, Bilbao is a vibrant destination full of art, architecture, and nightlife. The primary attraction for many visitors is the spectacular Frank Gehry-designed Guggenheim Museum Bilbao. This bold, titanium-clad structure glistens along the Nervión riverbank and serves as a magnificent testament to the city’s rebirth.

Bilbao offers exceptional dining throughout the city and is conveniently walkable or navigable via public transportation. Start with a leisurely fixed-price lunch at any of the city’s welcoming restaurants in Casco Viejo or Old Town. The menu of the day will typically include a starter, main course, coffee, dessert, and wine. The entrée might be the classic bacalao al pil pil (a simple preparation of salt cod with garlic, olive oil, and guindilla peppers), baby squid in its own ink, or perhaps an oxtail stew in a Rioja wine broth.

At last count, Bilbao boasted 13 Michelin stars among its restaurant offerings—including the exquisite Zortziko, whose two tasting menus provide a delicious introduction to the roots of Basque cuisine. The locals also love the 150-year-old Los Fueros, an unassuming spot beloved for its creative small plates and standout dishes like grilled prawns and cod fritters.

Bilbao also offers an excellent introduction to pintxo culture. Similar to tapas in other parts of Spain, pintxos are small bites of various combinations of seafood, cured meats, vegetables, tortilla (egg), or cheese—often skewered with a toothpick and served atop a slice of crusty bread. Even with no Basque or Spanish language skills, it’s easy to point to your choice of pintxo displayed along the bar and ask for a small glass of wine, beer, or cider to pair with your meal. Be sure to pace yourself, as fun lies in sampling pintxos at multiple bars throughout the evening. 

San Sebastián: The Belle of the Basque Country

After a couple of days in Bilbao, head east along the stunning coastline to San Sebastián, where taking in the sights along the way is worthwhile. Many visitors stop at the islet of Gaztelugatxe, which features an 11th-century hermitage and is connected to the mainland by a long, curving stone bridge. Further along the coast is Bermeo, the largest fishing port in the Basque region. It is also the gateway to Urdaibai, a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve. The famed surfing town of Mundaka is located here, and there are other world-class surf spots throughout the region.

Upon arrival, it’s immediately evident why San Sebastián routinely ranks as one of the world’s most beautiful cities. Known to the Basque people as Donostia, it’s hard to imagine a more enchanting urban area. With a sandy beach and elegant promenade curving gracefully around the shell-shaped bay, San Sebastián is the indisputable crown jewel of the Basque region.

Although small, San Sebastián is also widely regarded as one of the world’s great food capitals. With an unusually high number of Michelin-starred restaurants, including a trio (Akelarre, Arzak, and Martín Berasategui) that have earned the highest three-star honor, memorable meals are easy to find. But it’s not just at the high end of the culinary scene that San Sebastián shines. Throughout the Antiguo, La Parte Vieja, and Gros districts, dozens of pintxo bars compete for recognition among discerning locals.

Sweet Treats in Saint-Jean-De-Luz

To round out your Basque experience, travel across the French border to visit the nearby seaside town of Saint-Jean-de-Luz. It has a lovely boardwalk along the harbor and wonderful shops (and the beautiful Église Saint-Jean-Baptiste) on rue Gambetta. The Les Halles food market is open every day except Sunday, and great restaurants abound.

Saint-Jean-de-Luz is a pastry lover’s heaven. Stop in at Confiserie Pariès for a coffee and a rustic gâteau Basque. This delightful cake (pastel Vasco in Spanish) can be baked plain or filled with cherries or nuts. This region is also known for a more familiar sweet delicacy: the macaron, which originated in Saint-Jean-de-Luz in the 17th century. Today, there are a number of traditional bakeries in town that still use the original recipe. 

Of course, a big part of the fun in taking a gastronomically centered adventure is bringing home delicious ideas and inspirations. We’ve compiled an ideal list to get you started on your own Basque-style pintxo party that will keep alive the tastes, aromas, and textures of your trip abroad.

A Pintxo Party

Pintxos, from the Spanish word pincho (meaning “spike”), are usually served with a toothpick or small skewer and often layered on toast or bread. Here are 10 simple snacks for a Basque-themed get-together or a fun and easy tapas-style dinner:

1. Sardines in olive oil, roasted cherry tomato, chives, and a drizzle of olive oil.
2. Anchovy, Manchego cheese, and apricot jam.
3. Manzanilla olives, grilled shrimp, and pickled guindilla peppers, a type of milder chili pepper from the Basque region in Spain.
4. Smoked salmon and sliced hard-boiled egg on a one-inch-thick slice of baguette, skewered with a toothpick. 
5. Slices of jambon de Bayonne, an authentic cured ham from the Pays-Basque region in France, and sautéed garlicky mushrooms on toasted baguette rounds.
6. Tuna-stuffed piquillo peppers. Use jarred peppers and oil-packed bonito tuna, such as Ortiz, mixed with lemon, capers, and garlic aioli.
7. Quince paste, ham, and blue cheese on small squares of toasted raisin bread.
8. Roasted pumpkin with red pepper, onion, black olives, and tahini sauce.
9. Grilled zucchini ribbons with green olive tapenade and sweet pickles.
10. Paprika grilled chicken thighs on skewers.